More information about what, exactly, Phoebe Philo-the-brand will be is promised in January. (Will it be only women’s wear? Women’s wear and men’s wear? Unisex?) In the meantime, however, a few clues were buried in the announcement.
For example, the line will be of “exceptional quality,” which is generally fashion-speak for the high luxury end of the pricing and materials spectrum. It will likely be based in London, Ms. Philo’s home and where her Celine studio was located, despite the brand’s headquarters being in Paris.
And it’s not a big leap to guess that it may be created on the designer’s own schedule, given the emphasis on self-determination and given Ms. Philo’s history of chafing against the demands of the fashion system during both her 10 years at Celine and her five-year stint at Chloé, where she became the first designer at a major fashion brand to take a maternity leave.
Perhaps she will bypass the seasonal show wheel entirely for a new version of slow fashion, one that is altogether more sustainable. Perhaps she will be the designer who is really able to take a stand against the dominant culture of disposability and the ravenous maw of the content monster created by TikTok and Instagram.
In the announcement Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, called the new line an “entrepreneurial adventure.” (Despite the fact that Phoebe Philo-the-brand is not officially part of the luxury group, that LVMH is once again linked with Ms. Philo, given her most-wanted status, is a coup for the conglomerate.)